A Traveler's Log - Positano

Il San Pietro di Positano

Prelude

This note was written back in 2005, and it is not complete, but I thought it is worth publishing anyway.
TAB October 25, 2013 

It was still dark in Rome when the Saudia flight SV163 from Jeddah landed in Fumicino airport at 4:20 am Thursday May 26, 2005. After we cleared immigration we collected our luggage and proceeded through customs to find the driver that was sent by the hotel in Positano waiting for us (the charge for this service is 420 euros). The drive to Positano took about 4 hours (about 250 kms) as we stopped in a roadside cafe and restaurant (AutoGrill) to use the toilet and have a bite because we did not have breakfast on the plane. It is important for me to have something to eat so that I can take my morning insulin dosage. The last time we came through this road was in May 2003. We made a similar stop at one of those roadside cafés. At that time I was keeping my disposable insulin pen and needles in leather wrap which I carried in my jacket’s outside pocket. When we left the place I found out that the wrap was not in my pocket. We went back and searched for it in the toilet, the table we were standing by and the path we walked through with no success. Apparently someone thought it was something valuable and picked it up from my pocket. At that early time in the morning, and after a sleepless flight, my senses were extremely dull and hence I did not feel it. While I am sure the thief was extremely disappointed when he saw what he got in the wrap, he cannot imagine the inconvenience he could have caused me if I did not have a spare pen which would last me for my whole stay in Positano until I got back to Rome.

 This would be our 4th visit to Positano. The first was very short (2 days) as our final destination was Capri to meet some friends there. The second time was in May 2002 after spending one week in Rome. Last time, in 2003, and this time we did it in reverse, Positano first and then Rome. We found this arrangement more convenient because we do most of our shopping in Rome. When passing Naples to the right the driver pointed out the Vesuvius volcano far away on the left. Although we have come to this region 3 times before we have never considered visiting the remnants of Pompeii that was buried under tons of volcanic ash when this volcano erupted in AD 79. So I thought may be this time we should arrange a visit.

Michelin’s Green Guide rates Positano as “a seaside resort worth a journey”. It describes it as an old fishing village whose white cubic houses reveal a strong Moorish influence: lush gardens dotted on terraced slopes go down to the sea. This must be a result of the Arabs conquer of Sicily in 842 and their presence there and in some parts of Southern Italy until 1300 when the last of the Muslims in Lucera (north east of Naples) were forced to convert to Catholicism. Paul Klee, the Swiss artist, describes Positano as “the only place in the world designed on a vertical axis”. 

Hotel Il San Pietro di Positano is about 2 km to the east of Positano directly on the Amalfi Coast. The hotel is built on a cliff edge sloping down into the sea. The hotel complex was originally conceived by Carlo Cinque who is now deceased. Carlo’s nephew and niece Salvatore and Virginia Attanasio helped him running the hotel. With the passing of Salvatore, Virginia and her 2 sons Carlo and Vito Cinque (no direct relation to the older Carlo except through their mother) are managing the hotel now. The hotel has a panoramic view overlooking the coast (anti clock-wise) from Positano to the west to Priano to the east. All the rooms in the hotel have a sea view but I think the nicest are the ones that overlook Positano itself and the bay in front of it. The rates of course vary with the room size and the view it commands. Guests arrive at a yard on the same level as the main road and then go down a winding stairway of several steps to take the lift 3 stories down to the Lobby.

When we arrived to the hotel it was still early in the morning and many guests were having breakfast at the restaurant in the far end of the lobby. Our room was not ready yet so we had to wait. We went to the restaurant where we had coffee. The hotel owner Mrs. Virginia Attanasio stopped later to welcome us. We knew Virginia during our second visit and it became a tradition that during our stay she hosts us at a private dinner outside the hotel and we would reciprocate, also outside the hotel. In both occasions she selects the restaurant as she knows the place. The room we were offered was one floor above the Lobby with a view overlooking the sea and the coast towards Priano to the east. I asked for a room that overlooks Positano on the west but none was available that day and they promised me to keep my request in mind. The room, No. 46, was pleasant and the sea view just magnificent. I thought that there is no need to press for another room.

From Positano one can make several day-trips, by sea to Capri and Amalfi, or by car to Sorrento, Pompeii, Amalfi and Ravello and many other destinations. However as the main purpose for this trip to Italy was for me to relax so we avoided making any scheduled excursions except for 2 days, one to Pompeii and the other to Ravello via Amalfi. Those 2 destinations we never visited before. We also had a chance to go down the Amalfi coast on our last afternoon on the Hotel’s boat to Amalfi and back.

Otherwise we lived to the spirit of our purpose from this trip, to relax. Our daily routine is pegged to 3 periods: breakfast time, between 9:00 and 9:30 am in the room, lunch time between 1:30 and 2:00 pm and dinner time at 9:00 pm. During the day we had 3 venues to choose from: Fitness before breakfast (this venue is for me only), going down to stroll and do some shopping in Positano or going down to the sundeck to read a book and have a dip in the sea from time to time.


 After we unpacked we decided to go down to Positano to explore the now familiar places and make sure that everything is as it was when we left 2 years ago. The hotel provides a flexible shuttle service to and from Positano. The drop and pick up point is at the eastern tip of the village. One would walk down a road that zigzags through the village until he reaches the beach level. This excursion in itself (going down and up again) is a very demanding physical exercise. “Positano fashion” was born here in the fifties, with its brightly colored materials and equally famous sandals that are custom-made in the premises while waiting. Linen garments of all colors and designs for men and women and children also are sold in so many shops.

It was like coming back to old places. Here where we bought flowery dresses for the granddaughters last time we were her. Here where I bought my linen outfits and my wife tells me we have to buy one more set as the old ones have been ruined by washing them in the washing machine instead of dry cleaning. We are planning to buy dresses for the granddaughters and daughters in-law.

We had a quiet dinner at the hotel where we were seated at a nice table in the restaurant’s terrace. The food in the hotel’s restaurant is excellent. They have a tradition of serving each guest a slice of pizza with tomato sauce and mozzarella compliments of the chef. I do not remember I have tasted a so mouth-watering pizza. The fact that it is only a small slice makes it even tastier. Pasta and seafood are traditional dishes in the area. Pasta al dente is how it is served everywhere. For people who love pasta but cannot eat much of it because of weight-watching or being diabetic the best thing they can do is exercise. 

For exercise here there are 3 venues: to use the treadmill at the fitness center, go up the steps leading from the beach level to the Lobby level (about 88 meters), or walk up the village from the beach level to the shuttle pick up point at least twice a day, or to combine any of two. Virginia told us that she saw one of her young guests go up the stairs from the beach 13 times! And when she told her this is too much the young guest said, “This is the only way so that I can eat pasta every day”! I myself did the stairs one time only. While I was going up, and resting for a while in between, I saw an elderly gentleman, about 70, passing me going down, and then up, and then down again! This is what I call senior fitness.

We went to bed that night, our first, early. I have already arranged with the Concierge to book a car and a driver to take us to Pompeii next day. I thought it is best to do this excursion early before time steals us as we say in Arabic.

I woke up early in the morning and decided to use the fitness room for 45 minutes while Amal order breakfast to have it in the balcony. On my way back from the fitness room the receptionist told me that they have a room that overlooks the village and the bay as I have requested and if I care to see it. We were happy with the room they have given us and the new room will be more expensive so I wanted to decline but Virginia, who was already up and working, suggested that I go and see it if for nothing at least to see her Uncle Carlo’s bedroom where “everything started there” as she said. The room is a bit smaller than ours but the view is just fantastic, especially at that early time in the morning. However, considering that the rate for this room is higher than the one we are in now (140 euros), and that we are already unpacked everything, moreover there is a car that would be waiting for us at 10:00 am to take us to Pompeii, I thought to pass and told the receptionist that I shall consult with my wife and come back to him. 

"An Insert: Apparently we accepted to move to the other room. I can't remember how but we did"

We had lunch at the hotel as well as dinner out into the balcony to enjoy the view. Our room overlooks Positano and the bay in front of it. As Virginia told me that this room was her Uncle Carlo’s bedroom, and it was here where it all started. The view is always fantastic but especially at the time in the morning when the village is just waking up and the sea is calm reflecting on its surface the sailboats anchored overnight in the bay. 

Closing Note

It is been now more than 8 years since I have written this note. We have not been back to San Pietro since. I do not know if Virginia is still alive but I know from a friend that I have recommended the hotel to him last year that the rates have gone so high that he just stayed in another one down the road. I think we are lucky that we had the chance to stay at that charming hotel, not one time but four times and when I was fit enough to go up the 88 meters of steps from the beach up to the Reception level.